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Black Death nearly killed me!

But I survived! Before you freak out, I wasn't afflicted by the bubonic plague, I was afflicted with a Ranger Challenge, almost as bad.


As if the opportunity to have nearly free reign of the backcountry and share well-honed skills with eager young scouts wasn't enough, over the years Rangers have created a wide variety of challenges to keep things interesting. And to brag about them (or to "flex" in Ranger-speak). And to keep us planning and keep things interesting. And to keep us tired. No one wants to be in basecamp any more than necessary, so these are creative ways to do all of that.


I caught the bug, and spent my last hike-in day and following off day (July 4 and 5) on one called Black Death.


Black Death involves starting from Black Mountain camp on the west side and base of Black Mountain. After crossing the peak, one continues on the path, over to and up Shaefers Peak, over to and up the Tooth of Time and then down into basecamp along the route appropriately named the Trail of Tears. All in one day. A little over 14 miles and just shy of 4300' of elevation. Black Death and Trail of Tears? With a name like that who wouldn't want to do it?

I knocked, but Gnome-body was home.
I knocked, but Gnome-body was home.

I made my way over to Black Mountain camp after leaving my crew at Miner's Park, a short hike along the North Fork Urraca river. Short in distance, but not short in frustration. I was told there were 24 stream crossings as the trail wound its way up the ravine and back and forth across the river to the camp. At stream crossing 20 I was getting excited for the end. At 30 I was getting a little agitated. At 40 I was pissed. At 50 I was resigned to more crossings than trail and resigned to my fate. At 58 I finally reached the final ascent to the camp. Need to find the Ranger that told me 24 and soak his boots in muddy (maybe stinky) water.

One of the non-rock-hopping stream crossing, but not necessarily easier.
One of the non-rock-hopping stream crossing, but not necessarily easier.

In spite of the crossings, and the near constant spider webs across the trail (meaning I was first on the trail that day, so that's cool), it was a great hike. The environment is so different from much of the rest of Philmont, it was fun to explore. Different flowers and plants, different sounds, all winding along and across the gentle sound of the river. It was cool, and the trail was solid (mostly) and so a great start to the day. Except for those 58 events I am trying to block from memory.


I arrived at Black Mountain Camp earlier than expected and was very warmly welcomed by the staff. They don't get that many staff visitors, as they are one of two camps that doesn't have access via road. They actually have two large burros that they take up a 2 mile hill once a week to get resupply, which is cool, and challenging as the burros don't always want to go. So when staff comes and is staying the night, they roll out the red carpet. Or in this case, since it was the 4th of July, the red-white-and-blue carpet! They were busy with participants (they shoot black powder rifles for their program), so I decided some more hiking was the plan.

Actual cabin from 1890's, remains as it was, including wood fired stove.
Actual cabin from 1890's, remains as it was, including wood fired stove.

Not too far away were two large peaks, Bonito Peak (10,610') and Big Red Peak (11,020'), so what the heck. I didn't have anything to do until I started the challenge the following day. Plus, I wanted to hit the Big Red Peak so I could grab another one of the patches in the series I'm collecting. If I did that, and Black Mountain the following day, I would have only one left! I was very motivated. Off I go.


Bonito, in spite of its name, was not beautiful. Lots of deadfall, hot and sunny, and no view. But, I needed to cross it to get to Big Red (and the patch!). On I continue. Big Red was bonito. A few small knolls in between so up and down I went until finally summitting Big Red. Great views when I could finally catch my breath. I had some snacks, took some pictures, sent some texts, drank some water (day pack only, so took it a bit easy) and then back to camp.

Looking goofy and tired on the peak of the patch-less mountain.
Looking goofy and tired on the peak of the patch-less mountain.

On the way down it dawned on me that I didn't need Big Red for the patch series, I need Hart Peak. Don't know how I screwed that up. Dehydration? Or maybe I just have summit sickness (the incurable desire to climb to the top of everything). Oh well. I had a very nice time anyway.


Back at camp the staff and I had some fun. The scouts were having their dinner, so we shot a whole lot of black powder rifle for a bit. My shoulder was sore for a two days. Then we had bacon beef and bison burgers with cheese and a bunch of other yummy side dishes. Then as the scouts came back down for an evening program of early-style baseball (a hacky-sack wrapped in duct tape, no gloves, rocks for bases) the staff decided a single volley of all 5 of their rifles would be suitable substitute for fireworks. There were only 4 staff members, and so I was invited to be a part of the fun. It was weird as I was in my usual green staff shirt and they were in their Civil War period costumes, but when 5 black powder rifles go off at once, the smoke obscures everything. It was a hit. Not just with scouts, but with me too!


Up at 5:30 a.m., on the trail at 6 a.m. Carrying a bit more water than usual, it's going to be a long day and the end section is in the sun, which would be in the early afternoon. Black Mountain was tough, but manageable. I got to Shaefers pass around 9 a.m., grabbed a campsite and cooked the only real meal I had for a late breakfast, Yellow Curry with Chicken. It was actually a good choice as it used 1.5 cups of water, and was kinda soupy, so it was hydrating as well as filling.

View from Black Mountain
View from Black Mountain

Up Shaefers and the Tooth of Time and down into basecamp as planned. Honestly that all was a bit boring since I've done it so many previous times, but the rules say you have to do it all, so I did. Stupid rules, there's a short cut not on the maps that we use, but not for me not for today. I had the trail to myself almost entirely, most crews are going the same way as me, so not much traffic. There were 2 people on the Tooth when I got up there, which was a nice surprise as it's usually crowded. I grabbed a spot where I couldn't see them and pretended it was all mine. Then climbed down and headed back.


That rock outcropping clearly needed more rocks. Philmont Art at its best.
That rock outcropping clearly needed more rocks. Philmont Art at its best.

It's called the Trail of Tears because while it's downhill most of the way, it's a long and winding trail. It's in the sun almost entirely and you see basecamp in the distance, until the switchback takes you to the other side of the ridge and then it's gone. You hike some more, and the switchback takes you back, slightly lower, and back in sight of basecamp. It just doesn't seem to get any closer, but it's definitely getting hotter. Again and again. Over and over. Until finally you are down and you dry your tears and thank your chosen deity you are finally back.

SO far away!
SO far away!

It felt good to do it. My feet didn't feel good, but I'm getting used to that, they were better by morning. If it doesn't hurt is it a challenge? No idea, just glad it's done.


I got a lot of attention for doing it. I'm choosing to believe it comes because it was a difficult hike, not because it was a difficult hike and I'm an older Ranger. Regardless, I'm flexing. The legend of Ranger Bob is growing.

 
 
 

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